CHEESE RAVIOLI WITH BROWN-BUTTER EGG YOLKS, PARMESAN, AND SAGE
Serves 4 For a pantry meal, this has a lot of plate appeal. You can trace its roots back to a dish that was served at Noma featuring an egg yolk cured in beef juice. I found I could approximate the creamy, unctuous quality in a way that was more practical for a home kitchen by bathing the yolk in brown butter. I got the idea of pairing the yolk with ravioli one night when we had unexpected dinner guests and not a lot in the fridge. Fortunately, the combination turned out to be fantastic, and if you have good-quality cheese ravioli in the freezer (get the oversized ones if possible), this comes together quickly in a rather impressive way. It’s quite rich, so I serve it as an entrée rather than a starter, with just a simple salad.
Large egg yolks | 4
Salted butter | ¾ cup (1 ½ sticks; 165 grams)
Coarse sea salt
Large cheese ravioli | 16
Fresh sage sprigs | 2 or 3
Extra-virgin olive oil | For serving
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese | 1 (6-ounce/170-g) chunk
1. Separate the eggs, dropping each yolk into its own small bowl. Cut the butter into tablespoons and place in a medium saucepan. Melt the butter over medium heat until foamy. Continue cooking, whisking constantly, until the butter smells nutty and the milk solids at the bottom turn light brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately remove the brown butter from the heat. Carefully divide the butter among the 4 bowls, pouring it down the sides of the bowl, to cover the yolks entirely. Set aside for about 20 minutes. Do not pour the butter directly onto the fragile yolks or they may break.
2. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add a tablespoon or so of salt. Add the ravioli and cook according to the package directions until they float to the top of the water and are tender. Cut the sage leaves into thin shreds.
3. Drain the ravioli well and arrange 4 on each plate. Gently slip an egg yolk onto the center of each portion and drizzle the brown butter over all. Sprinkle with the basil and sage. Grate as much Parmigiano as you like on top. Serve immediately, offering olive oil at the table for drizzling.CONGRATULATIONS: YOU CAN MAKE BROWN BUTTER
Brown butter will keep, tightly covered in the fridge, for about a week, so if you are making some for this sauce, it’s easy to make a double batch and store half in a glass jar. The brown sediment will settle to the bottom of the jar, so before you use it, let it come to room temperature, stir to recombine, then:
• Make the roasted celery root on page 201.
• Smear it on a piece of bread.
• Drizzle it onto soup as a garnish.
• Serve it with fried or baked fish.
• Toss it with hot boiled potatoes and chopped dill or other herbs.
You can also cut the chilled brown butter into small cubes and use it to flavor vanilla ice cream, which is spectacular. Add it just before the ice cream is fully frozen, letting the paddle incorporate the bits into the custard.
Copyright © 2017 by Nadine Levy Redzepi. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.